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Rice
When I was growing up, there was just one rice, long-grained white rice. Now my pantry is not complete without at least a dozen rices, each with different uses and cooking methods. Rices are generally divided into three categories: long grain, medium grain, and short grain. Here is a sketch of some of the rices that we use, from longest to shortest. And then a discussion of the rices that we do not use and why.
Basmati Rice. This is our workhorse long-grain rice at the restaurant. Basmati is a long-grain rice is grown in the foothills of the Himalayas and is no doubt the rice that you have encountered at Indian restaurants. It has a wonderful fragrance unlike any other rice, and the flavor and fragrance improve with the age of the rice, to a point. When cooked, the grains are extremely long, distinct, and fluffy. This rice is a true joy in the kitchen.
Jasmine Rice. We use this long-grain rice from Thailand quite a bit. Also fragrant, but not as fragrant or as long-grained as Basmati, Jasmine rice is a great all purpose rice. The fragrance is more floral where I would say that Basmati is nutty. Jasmine is also a bit stickier and that is an advantage in many cases. When we want to put a mould of rice in the middle of a bowl, we will use Jasmine because the grains stick together a bit more than Basmati.
Carolina Gold. This is an heirloom American rice that is in short, but increasing, supply. With a long grain and a nutty and buttery flavor, this is an excellent long-grain rice whose character depends on the cooking method chosen. When first parboiled, the whose grains will stay separate; otherwise it takes on a risotto-like consistency. I am very pleased to see this rice, the foundation of the “Carolina Rice Cuisine,” making a comeback thanks to dedicated growers. The rice for Hoppin' John, I urge you to try this rice if you can find it.
Risotto Rices. There are several kinds of this medium-grain rice on the market, of which the most well known is Arborio. Other fairly widely available varieties that work well for risotto are Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Varieties not often found outside of Italy include Baldo, Padano, and Roma. These stubby medium-grain rices never get quite soft and they give off a lot of starch, exactly what is needed for a perfect risotto. They are almost always cooked with the slow addition of liquid in the risotto or paella style.
Paella Rices. Paella rice is a medium grained rice that separates well when cooked, but does not release as much starch as the risotto rices. From Calasparra in the Murcia region of Spain, these rices were at one point almost extinct. Bomba is the most well known variety. All the paella rices produce a very dry grain at harvest, allowing them to absorb a lot more liquid than your average rice.
Sushi Rices. Sushi rices are generally medium- to short-grained rices that are fairly sticky, necessary so that the rice holds together as a base for the fish. Many of the best sushi rices come from California and are imported into Japan. American sushi chefs squabble over the two major brands: Kokuho Rose and Nishiki. Although my favorite sushi chef swears by Nishiki, I prefer a really high grade rice that is not available in grocery stores.
Sticky or Glutinous Rice. A short-grain rice also known as sweet rice, this rice is the sticky rice of dim sum fame. Mostly, it is used for desserts, often mixed with coconut milk. Soaked overnight and then steamed, this rice requires a very different cooking technique than you may be used to.
Black Rice. A short-grain sticky rice also known as Thai purple rice, this is an excellent dessert rice. It starts black and finishes a deep purple. The color bleeds so anything that you cook it with will end up purple to black. I love to make rice pudding of this rice with coconut milk, coconut, candied pineapple, candied papaya, and a little brown or palm sugar. Macadamia nuts finish off this very decadent dish.
Wild Rice. Not a rice at all, but rather the very long seed of an unrelated grass (Zizania aquatica), this grain is treated as a rice because it is cooked and served just like rice. I really like it’s nutty and chewy character, especially with duck and game.
Here are some of the rices that we do not use.
Long Grain White Rice. This is the ubiquitous and generic long-grain rice of the supermarket. We prefer either of the aromatic rices: basmati or jasmine.
Converted. Otherwise known as Uncle Ben’s, we have no use for this. It takes a mere 15-20 minutes to cook rice from scratch so we have no need for the quicker cooking converted rice.
Texmati. A hybrid Basmati grown in the US, this rice has none of the flavor and character of true Basmati so we see no need to pay a premium for it.
Brown Rice. Also called "whole grain" rice, brown rice is white rice without the bran layer removed. Widely available and widely touted for its health benefits, it takes a long time to cook and just doesn’t do anything for us. |
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